Coke I paid when I arrived in this country cost me 25' 000 Zim dollars and I am paying it 40'000 when I am leaving the country.
In short, the Southeast Asia had its tsunami, Zimbabwe also, but the life is going on, then let’s start again by the beginning, my beginning.
When I am arriving at the border, small cultural shock: welcome back in Africa! People have the skin much blacker again, English is used and no more Portuguese. I am feeling happy because at first sight people seem to be very nice and the country beautiful and clean. I am arriving at Mutare, which is the third city of the country, close to superb mountains. Almost no traffic on the roads! There is no gas anymore or almost in Zimbabwe. I am seeing my first gas station: closed, no gas! I am finding one of them later in Harare which had some. Around fifty cars are queuing up on more than 200 meters in front of the station and even on the road! I do not have any more money, but it is magic, I have my credit card Mastercard. I am going to the bank and am asking for the equivalent of 300 USD to be able to travel through the country. And, surprise, I am receiving..... 32 million Zimbabwean dollars, a weight of at least 2 kilos… and in 5 large bundles of 1000 notes! I am asking them if they are making fun of me and when I understand that it’s not the case, I am asking for a box or a plastic bag! They do not have any and I am leaving the bank with the arms full of money. I am going to the drugstore around the corner where I ask a plastic bag to hide my loot. Welcome in Zimbabwe, kingdom of the Mugabe tsunami!
On the way for Harare, the capital, I am going down again the mountains and the fresh air of Mutare in the middle of old farms. The ground is not or badly farmed and is often back in the wild state. People is indeed very nice with me, nobody isn’t asking me for some money, it is almost shocking after all the African countries where people greeted me by "Hello, give me money". I am stopping on the road-side. There is an appointment of truck-drivers, I can buy fresh meat and am grilling it in the open air with the truck-drivers. I am eating and a man is offering me a beer (although my bike day is not finished, I cannot refuse...). I am in a country where never in Africa I felt so much safe, surrounded by nice and generous people, ready to help me and for once, not for money. I am also surprised to see so few people on the roads. During 3 days, apart from the cities and villages, I am crossing a few peasants who sell their fruits and vegetables on the roadside. Otherwise I am alone with my bike, the road guides me through the fields and the horizon oxygenates my heart.
I am arriving at Harare, 2 minutes before a downpour, one more, the rain season is getting gradually stronger (and it is only the beginning). I am arriving in a guest house where we feel like at home. In the living room, everyone is in front of the television because of the Africa’s cup of football (for the story, Egypt will win it. Like the past cups, the organizing country, Egypt this year, wins, which takes off a bit of suspense but finally the most important thing is to take part...). I am meeting Mario, a German biker who is making the world tour on bike and who is stuck in Harare because of a big puncture.... As he is saying so well, the big punctures during a trip, those that last the longest and which forces you to remain a long time in a place... they are the women. With him, we are visiting half of the clubs of Harare and we are waiting for the night to come to go out. At the end, each one will have a big puncture, mine is called Marjorie, his, Sandra. While I am writing this text in Windhoek, Mario is still in Harare. I spent unforgettable moments with him, being able to share our bikers common destiny, making over the world in our rooms. We spoke about our concerns, problems, angers or especially about the moments of joy that we live on our bikes. I hope we will meet again, but I am sure, that will happen. The roads of the world are not so large finally...
I am going to the lake Kariba. It is difficult for me to leave Harare, which is finally a beautiful city (in spite of the fact that I am not a fan of large cities). On the way, I am stopping at the caves of Chimoio and I am spending my last rest day in the company of the Harare Dream Team that I see for the last time. Until Kariba the road is quiet and without surprise. And I’m arriving in the national park of Kariba. I wanted to set up my camp for the night just after the entrance. But somebody is saying to me that there is a police station "not far". I decide to sleep in the police station rather than in a place where there are lions (My Tanzanian experience has affected me quite a bit and I’m telling myself that today I will not test my luck). I am biking, biking, the night is falling and still no police station.... The police station was in fact 20 kilometers further in the park and I am arriving in the black under the amazed eyes of the police officers.... I’m still shuddering when I remember me arriving at night in the middle of a national park... The police officers are really nice. I am spending the evening with the guy who is on duty and he is explaining how they fight against the poachers to preserve their beautiful national park. Suddenly, a gun shot is exploding. I am asking him: - « What was it ? Shouldn’t you go and check, there are perhaps poachers? » He is answering: - « Precisely! If there are poachers, they are very dangerous, I’m not going ! » Finally I will convince him to go and see. I’m going with him to reassure him! The shot was only soldiers drinking next to the police station and who shot in the air because of a too curious elephant, false alert... I am tightening my mosquito net in the hall and I am falling asleep at the shelter in the police station in the middle of nowhere, surrounded of electrified nettings against the savage animals.
The next day, I have to bike 50 kilometers through the national park before reaching Kariba, the city which also has the name of the lake. There are lions and I am a bit worried but very quickly I just see the beauty of the place and I am biking as on a cloud, baboons, monkeys, birds, antelopes along my way. It is splendid. And suddenly, in front of me, 2 elephants almost on the road! I just can’t believe it, I have my camera in my hands but only think of slowing down because I am going right on them! I am not managing to find the brakes with my camera in the hands and suddenly the big elephant in front of me is starting howling and moving the ears in my direction to intimidate and pretending to attack (and believe me, it is doing well ! But I still do not find the brakes, all is going so quickly!). Suddenly, seeing this odd iron animal charging into him, it is scared, is turning 2 times on itself and is running away! My first elephant and I’m the one that is scaring him, it’s the world up side down ! Later someone will explain me that there are 2 kinds of attacks. The fictitious one, as it did and the real one. That one, it doesn’t move his ears and it’s not howling, it just charges into its victim... I had the chance to have an actor in front of me and also to have met elephants of Kariba which are pacifist elephants (The elephants in the desert of Namibia are on the other hand very aggressive).
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I’m arriving at the lake Kariba and am meeting a Australian couple who I’m spending a great time with. Sunset on the lake while drinking a beer in the middle of elephants, hippopotamuses and zebras, fishing in the lake where I am catching my first big fishes, barbecue… true holidays!
I am looking for a boat which could bring me on the other side, at the end of the lake. I need o cross the lake to join a road and I prefer a boat which brings me far enough because I must be soon at the Victoria’s falls to meet my friend Christine friend who wants to bike until Windhoek with me. The boat that I am looking for will never come. But I’m lucky because I can go in the boat of the farm of the crocodiles which goes just on the other side (at about 250 kilometers from my initial destination and on a trail that nobody knows the state because of the rain which is getting stronger). While waiting to leave I am looking at some locals who are fishing. The body in the water up to the belly, elephants walking behind them and just in front of them, in the water, some hippopotamuses diving to feed. The lake is infested by crocodiles… These people are completely unconscious… the hippopotamuses are at less than 5 meters of them and the crocodiles are invisible until the moment when... when it’s already too late. The hippopotamuses are the animals which kill each year the most people in Africa. More than the lions, buffalos and crocodiles; the hippopotamuses are the "killers" of Africa.
On the other shore, the manager of the crocodiles’s farm, a white guy, is offering to Ben and I a room in the Hunter’s Hut (Ben manages a lodge. He lives at about ten kilometres from here). The next day, the manager is bringing us to Ben’s lodge with his speed boat. I cannot bike because there is no road anymore… I love the rain in Africa….) On the way, we can enjoy and watch the fantastic wildlife, the hippos, crocodiles, elephants. It’s simply magic and this nature seems so intact and so true to me, I’m charmed. Ben is inviting me, the lodge is closed (because there are no more tourists in Zimbabwe, thanks to the tsunami Mugabe, and it’s not the high season neither). We are emptying the kitchen’s reserve and we are finding some marvellous dusty wine bottles...
The next day, I’m on the road again and this is the real beginning of my calvary. The dirty road is catastrophic and again, I am finding myself again in the middle of a national park! Well, there shouldn’t be too many lions in here and I still should be careful but contrary to others national parks, some local tribes still live in this park and walk along the path, what makes me feel better….The forest is splendid and this is probably one of the most beautiful places that I saw in Africa! Everything is green, the bush is dense and everywhere, the place is wild and pure, again I’m biking on a cloud, the wheels in the mud... A bit later I am crossing the tse-tse flies check-point (I had forgotten to say that I met again my old friends the tse-tse flies, but fortunately not so many of them) and I am leaving the park. Pfff…. That was another national park where I didn’t finished in the belly of a lion! I should stop tempting destiny… Well, I am not so lucky because for the next 5 days, I will bike on a track while raining abundantly. Not all the day but enough to flood the road. A truck is passing by me and the driver is laughing at me. He is saying that I’m mad and that I will never manage to go through this track. The next day, I am passing by him, he spent the night in his truck, he is stuck and cannot move any more... It’s my turn, I’m laughing while pushing my bike in the mud... During all this time I am crossing less than twenty vehicles. More than the half is stucked in the mud. They slept in their trucks for sometimes 2 days and are waiting for a large 4x4 truck to come which could help them to get out.
People don’t speak English in here, they are not members of the tsunami Mugabe tribe so they don’t receive any money for education, infrastructures, hospitals, etc... The majority of this people and especially the children never saw a white so close and some of them are running away, some are dropping what they have in the hands with this strange look and some open the mouth and cannot move any more. Each time this is a very big surprise and the welcome, unforgettable. I am often sleeping in the small villages, tightening my mosquito net at the shelter under a roof. I am seeing the storms coming from far, the sky lightened by thausends flashes, people are taking care of me, being careful at what I need for sleeping and that no water will flood where I’m sleeping. We are sharing food in the evening (they can share more than me because I almost don’t have food any more, the shops are almost empty. And people don’t want any money!), the morning they are waking me up with a cup of tea and some water for a shower. Almost each time during this trip when I get the hardest conditions, mud, sand in Sudan, cold in Turkey, rains in Mozanbique, people help me and transform my calvary into a moment of happiness, with compassion and generosity, a mixture of culture beyond the problem of the languages. A natural and very human comprehension and it is precisely at this moment that I feel like a human being, as Sudanese are, as Turks as, as Burundian are or like in this case, as a Zimbabwean are. A race, the human being. And, lying on the ground, under my mosquito net, I feel so small when I look at these poor people who have almost nothing, but who open the arms for me. Magic, unforgettable...
Finally I am reaching the asphalt and at the same time a bit of civilization. I am biking quickly because the road is good and the rain is... cold.... I am biking along an another wild place, close to a national park, but there is so much traffic, that keeps more or less the animals away. I am arriving to the falls of Victoria by night and the next day I am finding myself watching at one of the 7 wonders of the world. I came here on my bike, sometimes I just forget it, and I feel small again, but this time it’s more because of the size of this water falling down in the valley, in the Zambezi.
Here I am, I have to leave again, to cross the border, my friend Christine is arriving in a few hours by bus from Windhoek. I am crossing the bridge which connects the two countries and brings me in Zambia. I am safe, everyone warned me saying that great dangers were waiting for me in this dangerous Zimbabwe and I survived! I survived this terrible tsunami called Robert Mugabe who starves it population and makes them poorer day after day. But finally I haven’t found these people poor. I found them very rich. People don’t give any more value to money (when I arrived, I changed 1 USD for 98' 000 Zim Dollars and when I left I could convert 1 usd for 160' 000 Zim Dollars, at the black market. This market is better because everybody wants to exchange his savings in USD and the bank don’t have USD to exchange). People created a parallel system where they exhange sugar against minimil, oil against salt, etc... People are very nice and this country that everyone said I should avoid it was a revelation. A splendid country with people who didn’t see me as money, but people who saw me as a human being and where finally white people mixes well with black population. Many white people live very well in Zimbabwe, in perfect harmony with their black neighbors. Finally the only problem in Zimbabwe is the tsunami Mugabe and its racist government, but the people remain human beings like everywhere on the planet earth. |
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