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The final road to Cape Town, one way ticket to paradise... or in hell. Is it really the end of my journey? I don’t hope so, otherwise it would be really hell on earth for me.

At the border, the Namibian customs officers don’t believe me when I tell them that I come from Switzerland (I get used to and as usual they are seeking for the motor between the lugagge…). With the South-African customs officers, I spend a good time to talk and laugh with them. They saw Dean, the Australian cyclist. They also talked to him and I explain my meeting and stories that happen when me spent 2 days in Namibia together. We speak about nothing and everything, like about travels, life, Africa and I almost forget to stamp my passport...

Welcome in South Africa, here is 30 kilometers up the hill after the border and I already did nearly 100 kilometers, I’m tired but I finish the last target of the day. I arrive dead tired and when I’m looking for a place for the nights, I realize that I’m in South Africa: The fences are not only higher than in Namibia, it’s also reinforced with barbed wire, what a rotten luck! That’s not all, the police’s cars festival is not stopping, there are everywhere. I use my almost useless experience as soldier and as a good commando (or rather like a good criminal), I jump over the fence, throw my luggage over the barbed wire and I progress slowly while hiding me behind the small bushes when a new police car come. More than 200 meters without being seen until I reach a small granite mountain... Here I’m not just afraid about the police force (because wild camping is prohibited in here) but also because of the very bad reputation that South Africa has. Not only about the enormous gap between whites and blacks but as well because of the blind and aggressive

criminality. I continue to bivouac outside and I will never be disturbed. I always set up my camp for the night, far from everything, in a pure nature and in the heat of my sleeping-bag (the nights slowly get cold) I watch at the thousand shooting stars which are illuminating the sky unceasingly. Quiet and romantic nights, I don’t feel like to be in a aggressive place (the nature in Africa is anything but tender), I feel like I’m just doing one with Mother Nature. I live with her, for her, thanks her. The rains stop for a while but when it doesn’t rain, the south-east wind dry up the country. Of course, that’s a frontal wind for me. I accept it, with the time you learn how to get use to it, the wind IS NOT a friend of a cyclist.

Arrived in Steinkopf, a white guy spontaneously invites me in his house, in the following city, Springbok. I cycle and start to feel the beginning of a tendonitis. A good day rest will be welcome and in fact, I will start to discover the incredible hospitality of white Afrikaner in South Africa. I knew already the incredible hospitality  of the white Namibians but I didn’t expect the same in here. South Africa is a country more developed and in my experience, more the country is developed, more the people are stressed, selfish, more individuality). Of course, the people will show me the opposite. Gamie and his wife will make me discover the place. I almost cross the Namaqualand without knowing what it is. An unique ecosystem, completely different with what I saw. Plants which grow from the rocks, in the middle of the desert, thousand kind of cactus which collect the water from the dew or from the rains. Incredibly beautiful plants and don’t worry, I don’t will start to tell you about all the erudite names or the Afrikaans names about this amazing ecosystem. I wouldn’t know where to start and the list is too long. On my long way, my life’s way or my journey’s life, I learn how day after day we have to appreciate truth values, usually the small things which are in fact so important. While I’m sightseeing in the national park close to Springbok, I think that I almost missed all those wonders. I had only the final destination in mind, Cape Town. For the first time, Cap Town was my target, usually my target is my way and all the surprises coming with. I stopped dreaming and wake up. I will stay awake until the end, until Cape Town. It’s helped me as well to take a good decision. I will take the road along the coast before reaching Cape Town (it’s only 200 kilometers more). Since Springbok, the road becomes straightforwardly tedious and even dangerous. The traffic is always growing. At least, people stop, give me food, cold drinks and even… cold beers, yes cold ! I fight against the desire I have to enjoy a nice cold beer while cycling (I know I cannot just drink one and from the second I wouldn’t be able to cycle more….). As a good boy, I keep them for the evening. I cycle, I cycle, long drives, I cycle and I try to avoid the black or colored small cities (or big villages). ot because about the racism or because I feel scared but more because I quickly noticed that in these places a few people, mostly men, are a little bit much under the influence of alcohol and that’s make me tired to impose me physically and especially psychologically during my breaks in this other Africa. Yes, South Africa is different, it’s an another Africa. It is a civilized country where the white is much more present than elsewhere. The white in here deserve to live here, because they settled generations ago already and that, at the same time than African tribes did. Tribe such as the Zulu emigrated from the north in search of new territories at about the same time. Everyone sees South Africa like the stronghold of Apartheid and imagines all the white as big racist. There is a bit of true and I met some extremists unfortunately. But to be honest, I met more racist who were black and that, in all Africa. Shame for us European as well, we have also a lot of skin head or other kind of racists. Almost everywhere during my journey through Africa, I felt racism. Day after day and after all those experiences, I now cannot tolerate this racism any more. The whites didn’t do it that good with Africa, that’s for sure, but African people tend to forget the good things which was made by the whites. They just want see the errors of the white and the colonists to seek for any compensation, money, money and more money. I don’t want to protect the white specie against the black one, I just want to express my point of view which is very different about the innocent and very simple image than the people have when they live in Europe or in the USA about Africa and African people. And we tend to forget that the apartheid and all the mistakes was made by people from European colonies and not white African people. I’m against all form of injustice and there is a lot to do here in Africa. Injustice face black people but also injustice face whites. Both are not right and shouldn’t exist. There is a lot of others injustice as well, such as sickness, poverty, right of the woman and a lot more. Let us hope that one day, all these problems of races, colors and even of religions leave place to peace and the tolerance in this magnificent African continent. Here is the cradle of the life, of the world. Here is wild nature, a multitude of colors everywhere and the music. Here in South Africa, we are supposed to be in a country of tolerance, where black, colored, white, Indian, Chinese are equal, where the handicapped person or the homosexual one, the man or the woman has the same statute. In each company, there must be a percentage representative the country. For example, 70% should be black employees, some should be colored and some white, more or less 50% must be women and there must be also a handicapped person, homosexual or both if the company got a reasonable size. The idea is beautiful, but at the economic and competing level, it’s cannot be. South Africa was know as a very developed country, but now, with this new black corrupted government (hold by the ANC, created a long time ago by the legendary Nelson Mandela), a Third World country. When I arrive, a story happened: There are 3 nuclear thermal power stations in South Africa. The first one has to be repaired (it’s started for a certain time already and should not be repaired before 2010). It’s important to know that South Africa provide electricity for Mozanbique, Botswana, Namibia and even a bit in Angola. But then, in the second power station happen a typical "African" incident. The workman who was doing some maintenance in the principal engine forgets his toolbox inside. When they restart the engine, the toolbox flew in thousand directions and destroyed the engine... There is now only one more power station for all those places. Now, there is electricity restrictions like on Sunday, Monday or Tuesday. Sometimes it’s rather during a part of the night or the day. The restaurants with big refrigerators lost all the food, the clubs and bars close at 10 p.m. because after there’s no electricity so no music and light. There is also no more lights in the streets which are already not very safe, etc... Let forget about all these stories, about color or economical.

I continue the movie of my life. I’m only a cyclist, a foreigner who just cross a country which is not mine. I can’t judge, I’m not from here. In fact, I have a lot of time to think because the road doesn’t make me any surprises, the landscapes to Cape Town are tedious and repetitive, hill after hill I cycle. Moreover, everywhere is just fields, artificial rivers, electric dams, fences, wires to find. Only civilization! During such a long time, I was out of that, out from the modern world, organized, programmed... Back to the reality, it’s quiet hard. But is it the real reality, the reality of the western world is maybe not the only one, maybe it’s not even the right one ? It is a world like another, a different culture like other cultures develop their own way to live. Okay, don’t think I don’t like South Africa because there is also very good things I find in here: I’m back in a modern world with all the comforts you can find: Service stations which sell everything and in good qualities, from time to time a camp-site with all necessary comfort where never I was allowed to pay (when the owner of the place see me and my bicycle, they systematically refuse to make me pay, incredible hospitality and generosity from the south African people. Maybe it was because as much my bicycle that me was in need for a good shower...). The most impressive for me are the supermarkets... I spend hours inside, not knowing what to buy, by listening the music they diffuse, I look at each product, one after the other.... That choice, too many choice any more, I do not manage to choose! First, to have to choose a brand, then you still have to choose between the 20 differents each brand is selling, it’s just madness ! From now, I decide to visit only small shops, less choice, less complicated!

I leave the principal road and on a secondary road, I join the coast. Of course, there’s always this frontal wind irritating me and sometimes the rains, light, but interminable... In here, everyone own a dog. The problem is that they are not always locked up in the countryside. Several times, I jump of my bicycle to run after the dogs which try to attack me. When I’m on the bicycle they show me their teethes or sign of agressivity. When I’m no more on the bicycle running after them, they get totally scared. 2 things they forget: First, I was trained in the worse country: Ethiopia and the flying-stones-kids-country. Second, I spent more than one year in the bush with wild animals. Now I’m just more wild than those domestic dogs and they realize it very quickly and are able to run away very fast…

 

I am like flying in an another dimension, my head is elsewhere and my legs carry me automatically, I don’t get tired anymore. Cape Town, 100 kilometers, Here we are, the finish line (at least on the map, going further is just not possible by bike…), I arrive.... Before stopping for my last bivouac, I see somebody making signs on the side of the road. It’s Giovanni, the guy I met at the service station in Windhoek the day I left! 3 weeks later I’m here. He did the way in one day (well, not the same way at least) He offer me a place to stay in one of its apartments, downtown in Cape Town. For all my stay, I can enjoy the place! Without knowing me really, he gives me his confidence and a ROOF! I remain full of admirations and respects. This is something I’ll never forget.

My last night outside should be unforgettable and it will be... I find a nice place, far from the noise of the road. There’s a lot of sand so I’m sure to have a nice and soft mattress. Over me, the sky is beautiful and in my sleeping-bag I can watch at beautiful stars. I fall asleep but suddenly it starts to rain, I cover myself with my canvas sheet in plastic and I built a small dam in sand over my head. Everything works perfectly, it’s not the first time I sleep with this canvas while raining. But it has to be an unforgettable night so under the pressure of water, the dam break down and a cold rainwater river arrive directly in my sleeping-bag. From the neck to the last toe, I am completely soaked! Obviously it has to happen the last day... So then, I try to build my tent during the storm. In the meantime, before I finish to fix it, everything is wet. In my tent, I make with the fist holes in the sand. The water is coming from everywhere so with those holes, I’m collecting the water in a kind of small lakes. I sleep with drops falling on me... My sleeping-bag is also completely wet. Unforgettable, then alone, in the middle of nowhere, I start to laugh. Better laughing than crying and in a way, I’m simply happy. I would have come from Switzerland to the bottom of Africa by bike. The animals and people haven’t got me. The climatic conditions haven’t stop me, diseases never really got me and I find myself in my swimming-pool a few kilometers from Town Cape, after almost 25' 000 kilometers by bike. I’m just happy, I’m like in an another world, nothing could affect the joy I fell,  even being completely wet.

 

The following day, I dry all my gear and take the road. Later on, I see a traveler with a supermarket’s caddie drying his tente on the side of the road. When I want stop to meet him, the police force arrives and ask me to leave right now.... I think the police don’t really enjoy people making wild camping but worse, I don’t think the caddie he’s driving belong to him.... Often, people tell me I’m insane but I don’t think so. There’s much crazier than me on this planet...

Here I am, that’s it ! Far away, I can see the Table Mountains far. I’m arrived at destination. While I’m approaching the city, I know: Here is not the end of my way, I have to and I will continue. I still need my to feel my partner, to be with my companion Lucie, the name I gave her. More than one and a half year ago I was leaving Switzerland. It was like a new birth for me, a new me. I learn in myself to know a free person, real and true. That was like I’m now somebody else and if I stop, never anymore I will be able to leave again. I know, for me it’s now just easier to continue. When I will set up, it will be for good. I just make a dream... I can see me, cycling in South America...

After a few days in Cape town, I spend one week in Clifford’s house, a South-African friend I met in Mozanbique. I spend the week in his place to work on my bicycle. After entirely taking apart it, sandpapered, I spray new colors. I made a promise to my sweet Lucie. If she will bring me to the bottom of Africa, I promise to take care of her and make her a lifting. My bicycle is like a woman for me... and to a woman, you cannot lie (if you don’t do what you and take enough care of her, she quickly become jealous... I know what I speak about...). Promise done, promise due!

My father Denis and my sister Nathalie come to visit me for a bit more than a week. We will discover together the Cape of Good Hope and all the coast to Port Elizabeth. A visit in the Addo National Park, a close contact with cheetahs in a foundation project, we disturb some penguins around Simon’s Town. The best for me was to make some white shark cage diving in Gansbai. The guide is also from Switzerland, a scientific researcher and especially a white shark’s passionate. He’s as crazy as me and take me out of the safe cadge. Together, we swim from the boat near an island where you can find all the seals. Magic moment und unforgettable, especially when you have seen more than a dozen a big white sharks during the last 2 hours in the water but that in the safety of the cage.... Moreover, those seals are their principal meal. If the seals are leaving, I know what to do, get out of the water as quick as possible ! But in a way, this guy is a professional and he knows what he’s doing (i hope so). I’m very grateful to him to have done that with me, to have a closer contact with the seals and be able to play with them under water. I would also never forget my meeting with the white sharks as well. A gorgeous animal, a killing machine yes, but not only, it’s a magnificient, perfect animal and we almost know nothing about them. The sharks are for the human being a mystery. Thanks to this swiss guy, I change my mind about the white shark and I get out of the water with a new enormous respect for them. That’s again a good exemple, never ever judge someone or something before knowing it. First see, experiment, share, try out, confront the unknown then you can judge with respect but without criticizing because each one has is own life, own culture, own past and future.

My family set out already, that was such a long time I haven’t seen them. That makes me feel good to speak to them, to hear and speak about my home, Switzerland. But in the same way, I realize how strange is this Switzerland for me now. It’s so far from me and my mind. A pity is that my mother couldn’t come. For sure, for an another time. We spent beautiful moments, those kind of moments written in my heart. We also meet a lot of nice people in various backpackers and a few nights didn’t end up very early… We visit a lot in South Africa and that, thanks the car of Gerhard, a German fellow I met almost a year ago in Uganda and who lives in Cape Town. It’s not my style to make publicity but he have a very nice Guest house (he’s also a very cool and nice guy) and very good and cheap car rentals (www.alohalodge.de). He’s now father and I wish to all the new family my best wishes, happiness, health and love. With his friends, we have a last excursion in a beautiful beach and already, I have to leave. My family is already gone and I’ve to go back to my new provisional home: Namibia.

I’m taking the bus, yes the bus! Awfully tedious and uncomfortable, I pass about fifteen hours to the destination, thinking of nothing and everything. Fortunately, I meet many nice people and with 2-3 other artists, we will animate the journey.... Another kind of traveling, but I know, one day, I will find myself back on a saddle... I’ve to work a bit now, my money is finish and except the financial aspect, I’m also happy to do this job. Being tour guide is not only good for the money but I also have to make safaris, excursions and trekking in this beautiful nature. It will be a good break and I don’t feel that like an obligation. That’s what I like, being in the natrure, watch the wildlife, I also continue to live my passion and that, with money. The life could be worse, much worse.... And to conclude, that’s a beautiful gift of Africa: without this job, I wouldn’t have the money to visit all this places, quiet expensive places.

Arrived in a Cape Town, South Africa, end of the African road

That’s it; I’m now arrived in Cape Town. A target who wasn’t really the place I chose at the beginning of my travel to be my target and it’s probably not really a target, just another stage of my journey, another stage of the journey of the life, of my life. I wanted to cycle to Tibet and after that, I changed about 10 times the plan of my route before arriving at the bottom of the African continent. I drove about 25'000 kilometres with my bicycle, crossed 25 countries (include Switzerland, the beginning of my journey), 3 continents and a lot of adventures. I knew the joy, the motivation, the nirvana, the love, the satisfaction but I met the fear as well, the fatigue, the hate, the discouragement. During the last stage from Windhoek, Namibia down to Cape Town, I had an unforgettable time again. The big spaces, the solitude, the hyenas, the rain (yes, again), the front wind and especially this strange feeling to arrive at the bottom of this continent with the only power of my legs. More than one and a half year travelling through amazing places. I still have my head full of pictures and souvenirs.

To cross Africa on a bicycle is not an easy task but it’s even worth when you are alone. I know now what is the solitude but a journey on a bicycle is a journey of meetings as well. Everywhere, I made beautiful meetings that I will remember all my life long. Thanks to all those people I met, I probably did what I did. It’s those meetings who give me the motivation to continue, especially during the times I was a bit down or tired. So to all those people I met, I want say “thank you” !

I just spend a week with my family who came to visit me. It was beautiful to be with them again and I enjoyed being a real tourist and visit a lot of things like to dive with the white sharks or go to the Cape of Good Hope. I will come back to all these stories later on. Before that, I spent a week in stellenbosh by Clifford, a friend I met in Mozambique. During these times, I work on my bicycle and I made a complete renovation and new painting (I made a promise to my dear bicycle. If she would bring me to Cape Town, I would make her a new lifting, so I kept my promise….). Now she looks like new! Now, I will go back to Windhoek where I will work as tour guide during a few months, it will let me some times to put some order in my life (and fortunately to make my bank account healthier). After that, I’ll see what will happens, insha’allah. One thing after the other. Soon, you will be able to access the last stories and pictures. I will let you know or at least to the people I got the e-mail.. For now, you get the greetings of a resting cyclist who send you his best thinking and who knows, see you soon perhaps!

Peace, love, Hervé

To give some numbers (even if I hate numbers and especially statistics) :

-         About 40 punchers (I haven’t really counted them)
-         6 tyres changed
-         3 chains
-         25’000 kilometres on my bike
-         25 countries by bike (include Switzerland), 27 in total
-         About 1500 stitches of mosquitoes and tsetse flies
-         200 beautiful sunsets
-         1 tendonitis on the right foot
-         1 accident (hit by a truck in Montenegro)
-         5-6 fallings (most of them in the sand or in the mud in the bush, nobody saw me…)
-         A lot a lot of exceptional times, impossible to estimate!

I have to give the awards to those I hate most in Africa as well. Those who gave me the hardest times. So the big winners are:

  1. the sand
  2. the mud
  3. the rain
  4. the wind
  5. the tsetse flies
  6. the Ethiopians who run after me with stones (and they throw it as well…)
  7. the buffalos on my way
  8. the corrugated roads who drove me almost crazy
  9. the corrupt police and army
the dogs (a bit everywhere but especially in Turkey)

 


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