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Smell of pizzas and dream of less traffic in Italy

The first foreign country where my bicycle 'brings' me. For sure, not the most exotic one and not the most pleasant to cross because of the incredible traffic on the roads at any moment of the day (except Sundays, not because they all pray at church but because of the God Football) But it's not as dramatic as it sounds. Italy is a beautiful country and everyday is parties on the road. Especially towards Bergamo and in the small mountains around. There's a lot of cyclists here (I don't speak about the incredible prostitution along the roads and near the cities, there is a lot as well...). One day I find myself in the middle of a bicycle race (of course all of them drive quicker than me) and the cars of the teams don't forget to comment the look and the bicycle's stuff I'm carrying when they pass by me.

For me Verona and Venice will remain the prettiest cities. The smell of the pizzas while driving, the people who support me like if it was the Giro (the biggest bicycle Italian race), the churches almost belling the beginning of the football match and the attacks of mosquitoes and insects of all kind as soon as I set up my tent in a field, that's all the feelings I keep in mind of Italy.

In Verona, I'm calling in vain Julietta at her balcony but she doesn't show up, probably because I don't have the last Alpha Romeo... And on the way to Venice I'm meeting Roberto, driving like crazy from France to East Germany (from where he comes from). And because he has only a few baggages we’re making an appointment at the only place we know about Venice: The square where are all the pigeons, the square San Marco. At this time I don't suspect that it's necessary for me to climb almost twenty bridges to get to this place. A real nightmare, but the positive aspect, because there's always one, is that I get slowly but surely

really fit. On this place I see a woman, working for an official Gucci store, giving discretely money to an African street's salesman who sells Gucci's copies. She probably makes good money solding it for a fortune like real Gucci.

Then I'm saving the life of a pigeon. One died by strangulation because the other one got his claws stuck in the feathers of the other one. Shouts of disgust when the blood squirts and when I free it, applause from the tourists in Venice who are looking for culture and Venetian magic.

For me, the only desire I have is to leave this very expensive place as soon as possible and without crossing all the bridges again. I'm taking a boat to the Lido of Venizia for a couple of kilometers. I'm sleeping in a camping where all the people speak German of course. The first and probably the last camping for me because I prefer not to have a shower and not to pay to get my tranquillity to sleep (because some people were very noisy during their sleep, probably because of too many beers).

In a village I'm giving my first interview to a young guy for his local newspaper. He's really surprised to see me but a bit disappointed when I tell him that in fact I'm here just because I'm looking for a supermarket! From midday to 4 p.m (the time you're hungry and thirsty of course) all the villages and the stores are asleep.

In Udine and Trieste, I enjoy life and this due of an unforgettable welcome of my friends. A small but fine and coloured festival in the countryside from Udine, a popular sailing ships in Trieste, the biggest in Europe and probably in the world. A lot of good times...

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Herve Pura Vida 2009
Herve Neukomm
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