the Rio Napo becomes navigable, what makes it one of the longest routes in the Amazon. The second one, it was above all to be able to test the Bici-Boat and then to make the most of my stay in Coca resupplying me, repairing and improving the Bici Boat. It is the last city before Iquitos, that I should reach in about 6 - 8 weeks, and I was really anxious to have a precise idea of what I needed and what was missing before going into the unknown.
After the first kilometres already, I was in the water and stuck in rocks in low water, first shock of my helixes and rudder and not the last one until Coca. I learn to handle the Bici-Boat and to have it well in hand. Slowly but surely, I tame it and more the time passes, more I feel at ease. Obviously not at the beginning when I made numerous faults as especially the steering. With my handlebars in hands (which is useless but only serves me as a support) and a bar which activates the rudder on the back side of the boat, it was a little bit the confusion before finding the good reflexes in the rapids where the slightest mistake does not forgive.
After my first night infested with mosquitoes, midges and insects, but protected by my mosquito net and my hammock, I left a little more confident than the first day and the accident of the camera. It is after a relatively quiet day where I better appreciated the rapids that I made a big mistake : loss of control in a turn with a strong current ! I was literally projected against dead trees which lifted the boat on the side. I was completely stuck in big branches and lianas. I spent almost one hour to fight and to give all my energy to take me out of this situation. I was also obliged to get into the water, to fight against the violent current not to pass under my own helixes and to open with the machete this plant dam which was helding dangerously the bici-boat (and whose every pressure of the rapids could sink me definitively). When I scratched myself the foot and felt some blood running while I was in the water, obviously the image of the redoubtable piranhas immediately came to my mind and motivated me even more to get out of there as quickly as possible. I cut a small trunk, 2 big branches, numerous lianas and suddenly the Bici-Boat restarted, free as he should be the next months. The paradisiac peace came back as fast as the rapids had appeared. The effect of the adrenalin gone and after the furnished effort and especially the emotions, I could hardly stay standing. It was a little bit like a cold shower, I realized what I embarked on, what it had really happened and I rapidly measured the consequences that it could have had. The Amazon does not forgive. I knew it but now I am really warned and it reminds me the most important think: Not to forget to have humility and respect for this sometimes particularly hostile and unforgivable environment |
me from far away, I hear them but they don’t talk to me and disappear as fast as they came. It does not bother me to be taken in picture, but there is a way to make and to respect the others. Fortunately, I still had nice encounters like these 2 beautiful indigenous women who passed by me while I was having my bath in the evening. They tried to pull the « running-out-of-petrol trick » on me by offering me some oranges. I explain: they knew very well that I was bathing in boxer shorts, as everybody here does and they waited to be a few meters away to propose me an orange. I obviously had to get up to get out of the water to fetch it. They had a smile and their eyes wide open did not look at my face but much lower... When I left, they called me again to offer me the rest of their oranges … That made me laugh and well I’m not fooled. I know that I am not built like Ulysses but for people who see only whites from far away, it is always a great moment when they have one in boxer shorts in front of them. Especially a hairy one like I am. Well let’s put aside my hair, I would rather tell my most beautiful encounter. One evening as I was cooking quietly in the corner of my small fire in the boat, an Indian appeared on a canoe with his son. Dressed with several bracelets, pendants and especially with underpants that I must admit suited him and which seemed very comfortable. We exchanged one of these magic, disinterested conversations and above all very simple with his little Spanish. He explained me that by hearing me he believed that it was an animal … That's why he came. We spoke about rivers, rapids, wild animals that he hunts, dangers to come. He never went to Coca or Tena, the 2 only cities in the Ecuadorian Amazon which are about 100 kilometres away upstream and downstream. We obviously spoke about fishing and a little about his and my family. No trivial question, just a simple discussion and when the silence settled down, without causing any embarrassment, he told me that he had to go fishing or to try to hunt. He refused to taste the food that I offered to him. I know it, that’s not the first time that this kind of thinks happens. It is not by disgust or fear, but by dignity. This man is simple but noble. He doesn’t need anybody to survive. His muscular figure and the one of his son seated in front of the canoe which went away reminded me the hardness but the beauty of this lifestyle that I admire. The darkness arrived with its concert of insects and night birds. Installed in my hammock, the images in my head began to scroll and I fell asleep.
Regrettably, everyone is not like him and the “new arrived" - natives also but who settled down recently on the banks of the Rio Napo - do not necessarily respect the rain forest. A guy throw a stick of dynamite at about 15 metres from me. An easy but destructive way of fishing for this fragile environment. Also when I walk in the jungle, I often see completely cleared places. I did not think of being so quickly confronted with this type of problems. That’s these new arrived who do not respect the ancestral balance of the forest. They do not know how to fish or cut wood here and there because it demands too much energy and time. Instead of that they destroy everything and do not even wonder in which state they are going to leave the river and the forest to their own children.
I spent my days pedaling but the effort to pass rapids and above all the concentration needed all time tong tired me quickly and I had to keep strengths in the evening to repair the bici-boat, find some wood, cook and maintain the order in my new home. In spite of the various noises and some visits of night-animals, I always slept deeply!
I was closed to Coca, I knew it. The place was very wild and well protected. Therefore I decided to stop there early and to go to Coca quietly the next morning, not to have to worry about finding a safe place where to sleep before sunset. In fact, the safe place would have been in Coca, because this evening, I faced such a violent downpour, one of those found in the Amazon. I thought that I was aware of the dangers of the Amazon, it reminded me at once again how much it could be powerful and devastating. For more than the half of the night, lightning fell close to me. The water level of the Rio Napo rose of more than 1.50 meters during night, and gusts of wind balanced my boat both ends all night with such intensity. I twice had to skim because although open space was limited, an impressive amount of water entered and I was swimming in my bed. The images which I keep of this night are the 2 seconds of light that the flashes of lightning gave me and which illuminated everything while I was skimming. I recall myself in that river that had become a stream in the middle of this tropical jungle, an impressive, unforgettable image. I hardly ever experienced such a restless night, at the nature’s mercy. When I wake up, no more beach, I was at the height of the trees. The view in height cleared up with this thunderstorm and a majestic volcano appeared for the first time. The view was beautiful and reminded me my place. I was small in this majestic and wild landscape. The Andes greeted me a last time after having spent so many months in their company.
Blumbleblee used my boat as a playing ground and their buzzing accompanied my last pedals strokes until El Coca. Later, the noise of planes and a bridge indicated me the return to the civilization. Upon arrival, it took me one hour to get used to being on dry land again and to re-accustom me to the noise, people and traffic of Coca.
I thought of leaving quickly but finally I stayed 2 weeks to repair the Bici-Boat and to make new purchases. I also suddenly decided to go to Quito by bus to have my camera repaired. I took advantage of it to see again my daughter who came to the capital for that reason.
In Coca, I am staying at Hosteleria Amazana and I am making new friends. On the other hand, the captain of the Navy is looking for me everywhere to register my boat. I asked a lawyer in Quito who confirmed me that if I don’t have any engine, I do not need to register the boat. I know very well that if I do it, I open the door to any forms of fines and especially backhander during the journey and at the borders (especially in Peru which is maybe the most corrupted country of South America). Finally, I made some more small purchases, repairs and improvements on the boat. It was my last possibility to take advantage of a city before Iquitos, which is, I think, at 2 months of journey.
I benefit from a good bed and good restaurants because now I will fully start my adventure and leave the civilization. Above all I will be able to dedicate myself to my researches on the wild life and my encounters with local people to try to learn more about this rich and beautiful Amazon. Henceforth, another journey is beginning. Exit the adrenalin caused by rapids and tree trunks. Time now for a stream that widens and falls asleep, which I will quietly enjoy. I will also be able to sail up the small rivers that lead to various lagoons because without stream the Bici-Boat easily manages to sail upstream.
I am now going to the border with Peru, to Roca Fuerte. I plan to sail up a lagoon close to the national park of Yasuni and then to attack the remote Peruvian part of Napo, before reaching the Rio Amazon and Iquitos. At the border, I will be able to give some news. After the border, incha' allah. But something is sure, I am looking forward to leaving the smothering heat of the city of Coca to be able to enjoy the breeze on the Napo…
Henceforth, the adventure really begins and I am going to be able to dive completely into this magnificent Amazon forest! Good bye and thanks to all for your support.
Hasta luego y un gran abrazo,
Hervé |
